AHHHH-GUST

Stores are reopening and humans are reappearing on our neighborhood streets, which can only mean one thing: Barcelona is emerging from its summer hibernation and our favorite month is rapidly drawing to a close. This year, we did August the Catalan way: not in the city, plenty of fresh air, and an abundance of time with friends and family. 

After our rather inauspicious start (update: the parking fare was 453 #$&@ing euros), we successfully made it to Sweden, Iceland, and then the US. Stockholm was lovely, but Iceland was truly out of this world. Though the temperatures rarely rose above the low-50s (i.e., the equivalent of Barcelona's deep winter), we kept warm tromping around the otherworldly landscapes and lava fields. We were especially awed by the never-setting sun, the volcanic steam vents (which had a skittish Owen convinced that the earth about to start belching molten lava), the near-complete lack of trees, the deliciousness of gas station soft-serve, and the price tag on every menu in Reykjavik. We topped off that trip with two and a half weeks in the US, which wasn't enough to do and see everything and everyone we wanted, but gave us time to hug some nephews, catch up with old friends, and do some serious downhill slip-n-sliding in Yaya and Boppy's backyard.

CITY DATING

Visiting a new city is the terrestrial equivalent of a first-date; you see its best self, all gussied up and dying to make a good impression. In one whirlwind first encounter, you get the highlights — the things it’s most eager to divulge, the parts of itself it’s most willing to share — all with the mutually-understood intention of luring you back for a second round.

But as we all know, first dates don’t tell you much about real life...

To shamelessly overextend my metaphor, in previous travels I’d tricked myself into believing the new city and I were married. Or at least cohabitating. I thought my brief encounters afforded me a privileged glimpse into what our life together would really be like, and I crafted my daydreams accordingly. For instance, when we first visited Barcelona as tourists in 2014, I genuinely felt I *knew* knew for the place—the neighborhoods, the food, the shops, the people. After nine days, I could picture what our life would be like together, how we’d raise our children, the long hours we’d spend relaxing in the sun and walking down the beach. (Perhaps this is unsurprising coming from a girl who got engaged after 7 months of dating.) "Barcelona," I thought, "I know you. And I’m ready to take the plunge."

Two years later, I would find out that I was — of course — totally mistaken. I didn’t know know anything; that was just a first-date. Now that we actually are living together, I see a completely different side. The city has secrets and quirks. Sometimes it’s smelly. The culture is complicated. Jamón ibérico is overrated. The local bureaucracy is thick but relatively efficient. It’s not that I love it any less; it’s just a more interesting, more complex place than I could’ve imagined at the outset. There are countless things that, as a resident, I’m beginning to see, but that exist just beneath the gaze of a casual weekend visitor.

Having had that realization about Barcelona has changed my general attitudes about traveling. For better or worse, I’m now acutely aware that I’m only on a first-date. No more daydreaming about our marital bliss; I’m just a first-timer, grudgingly conscious of all that I don’t and can’t possibly know. In some ways, it makes our quick weekend trips feel somewhat shallow and superficial; in other ways, it makes me very grateful to have gotten the chance to really explore one culture while bopping around to get a taste of others.

To that end, we recently took a quick trip to Prague. It was every bit the enchanting, fairytale town that we’d been promised. Spared from worst of the destruction during the World Wars, the charming old buildings are intact and make you feel as though you’re strolling through a different time. Over three days, we checked off the TripAdvisor top “Things to Do,” and while I didn’t exactly come away feeling like I knew what life in Prague is really like, I do think our first date ended with a definite spark.

SPRING BREAK, EURO-STYLE

Everyone (not a hyperbole) in our Spanish world speaks multiple languages. The underachievers are only fluent in two; most speak between three and five. So when the "Which languages do you speak?" topic arises — as it regularly does — I pretend I'm not that uncultured American who just emerged from my English-speaking cave: "Well no Spanish...yet!...but I took 6 years of French. Guess I picked the wrong language! Oops! [awkward laugh]" As though my deficiency in one is clearly explained by my masterful command of the other. Right.

But it only took 24 hours in France to disabuse me of the notion that I can in any way, ever again, truthfully claim to speak French.

We drove to Provence for Semana Santa — the week before Easter, when Spanish schools and businesses alike get a spring break — and spent 4 nights in Saint-Remy-de-Provence with our expat friends and their kids. Upon sitting through a meal attended by a grumpy French waitress, and then stumbling through a 90-second grocery store checkout, my imposter-francophone self was exposed: my French pronunciation had a decidedly Spanish flare, my limited French vocabulary had merged with my also-limited Spanish vocabulary, and I could not, for the life of me, stop saying "si." It was Spanlishench at its worst. 

Regardless of the language issues (a familiar theme of our last 9 months), Provence was...Provence. Exactly what you'd expect: charming, quaint, delicious, and made even better by a glass of rosé at sunset. We explored several of the surrounding villages and cities — Les Baux-de-Provence, Avignon, Gordes, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse — and spent time enjoying the backyard of a truly delightful AirBnB. 

And thanks to an extended visit by a generous mother-in-law, Aaron and I got to tack an extra two nights onto the vacation; after we dropped off the kids and "Nammy" back in Barcelona, we flew to San Sebastián for brief but oh-so-appreciated kid-less getaway. 

NOT TO BRAG, BUT FOR TODAY'S TOPIC: WEATHER

It would be an understatement to say that we've appreciated Barcelona's weather. With Boston ice still thawing in our blood, we've been truly madly deeply in love with the bright blue Mediterranean sky and the Catalan version of "winter." It's been amusing to see a people-totally-unaccustomed-to-actual-harsh-weather's version of harsh weather; as soon as the temperature dips below 60, everyone busts out their mega-puffer jackets and schools stop having outdoor recess. (Boston: delay the puffer as long as possible or you'll have nothing left in your winter artillery bank, and you're only skipping outdoor recess if there's a windchill warning and your fingertips are on the line.) It's not to say it's not cold here — there was a stretch of jackets-required 50-degree days — but it was short-lived and manageable in a way that we're totally not used to.

Since weather is all relative, we've exploited the fact that many Spaniards are still hibernating and taken the opportunity to play on still-deserted beaches in Barcelona and beyond. Our recent favorite was Begur in Costa Brava — the beautiful rocky, hilly, beachy area north of Barcelona — where we spent a weekend with our friends from the US, Noah and Kate and their world-traveling 8-month-old; it's less than a 2-hour drive from Barcelona and a little piece of heaven on earth.

SEMANA BLANCA

Many of Spain's schools grant two spring breaks: one is (pretty obviously) Semana Santa, the Holy Week for Easter holidays, the other is (less obviously) Semana Blanca, the Holy Week for ski holidays.

As its name seems to impel, Semana Blanca ("white week") sees the mass exodus of families to the surrounding mountains; almost everyone leaves the city, and almost everyone heads snow-ward. We were no exception. But armed with crazy cheap airline tickets (thanks, EasyJet), we bypassed the Pyrenees and braved the Alps. 

Backing it up a bit, we actually did our first Euro-ski weekend (read: a test-run to see if Eliza would tolerate snow sports) at the end of January. We drove four hours to Baqueria-Beret, a Pyrenees mountain on the border of France and Spain, where we discovered that not only did the kids tolerate skiing, they may actually make Aaron's Dad Dreams of having a ski-addicted family come true. (Side note: we've been driving around with a ski rack atop our car since August.)

Having established that we could collectively handle something a bit more exotic, we chose Saas-Fee in the Swiss Alps. We took a quick flight from Barcelona to Geneva (in Spanish, Ginebra; good to know beforehand if you want any prayer of finding your gate), a 2.5 hour train from the Geneva Airport to Visp, and a 50-minute bus from Visp to Saas-Fee. It was a hike but well worth it. Saas-Fee is a cozy, fun car-less town where everyone skis (and après-skis). The kids took 3 hours of lessons a day (translated: 3 hours of guilt-free adult-only ski time a day) and we all spent the afternoons together soaking in the vistas.