THE IMPORTANCE OF REACTION

Last night before bed, I saw Owen fishing around in the pocket of a pair of pants he'd just worn to school. I watched as he pulled something out and placed it covertly in the palm of his hand. Curious, I asked him what it was he'd found. He hastily assured me that it was nothing, walked over to a drawer in his room, and attempted to stash it away. With growing interest, I chuckled and said, no really, what do you have? To my great surprise, he started crying, quite hysterically, and hurled himself onto the ground. He — and then I — knew that whatever was in his little hand shouldn't have been.

It turns out it was one very small blue bead, the kind you'd thread onto a pipe-cleaner or the end of a cornrow braid. It came from a counting activity in his classroom, and it was nothing special, the kind of thing that — if I'd found it in his pocket myself — I never ever would've questioned; a stupid little thing I probably would've just thrown in the trash. But he'd taken it, knowing he shouldn't have, and there we found ourselves: having a complete meltdown over an insignificant piece of plastic.

And so I faced a decision: let it go or react. I chose the latter; his conscience was too guilty and the lesson needed to be learned. I told him to get out a piece of paper and an envelope. Together we wrote a note to his teachers apologizing for taking something that wasn't his, and together we put that bead and that note into an envelope and then into his backpack. We discussed the importance of righting our wrongs, of owning up to our actions, and we made a plan about how we'd address it at school in the morning. Afterward, I emailed his teachers to warn them what was coming; I apologized for what may appear to be an overreaction, but told them it was too important a thing for me to let go. 

Meanwhile, as I was decisively addressing the “theft” of a 1-cent bead, U.S. voters half a world away were busy casting their ballots. I woke up periodically throughout the night to check my phone for updates; in the early morning hours, I dreamed that one such update had announced Hillary the winner. I dreamed that I met her and hugged her and cried with happiness that Eliza would awaken in a world where “The first female U.S. President” would forevermore be an invalid answer to: “What do you want to be when you grow up?”

Obviously that didn’t happen. Instead, Eliza woke up in a world where we’ve decided it’s okay for men to “grab [women] by the pussy” — a thing I feel embarrassed even to type, but which is apparently completely acceptable for U.S. Presidents-Elect to say. My kids woke up citizens of a country that has decided not to react to bigotry and hate speech, overt racism and sexism and lies. I woke up to an unfamiliar, disorienting nation that today I’m deeply, deeply ashamed of.

Over breakfast, I didn’t know how to explain to my kids the seismic shift that had happened while they slept. So I didn’t. Instead, we got dressed and took the train to school. I walked Owen to class and watched him sheepishly hand over the apology note to his teachers, who graciously told him they were proud of him for being honest and doing the right thing. I saw how his little face softened and his big brown eyes lit up as they affectionately gave him a hug.

Maybe he’ll remember this as the formative moment when he learned not to steal; maybe he’ll remember it as the time when I completely and unnecessarily embarrassed him; maybe he won’t remember it at all. Whichever way it goes, I stand by my decision to react.

Because dangerous precedents can be set when you don’t. 

MALLORCA

There's much to love about Mallorca. We were hoping — but not certain — that would be the case when we booked our trip; the Spanish island gets a bad rap for being a cheap party destination for over-served English-speakers, but we had enough thumbs-up recommendations from friends to give it a try. And since it sits in the middle of the Mediterranean 130 miles due south of Barcelona, the 30-minute flight meant there was little downside to giving it a try.

We arrived on Saturday afternoon and drove immediately from the Palma airport to Port de Soller on the northwest coast. (Palma lives up to the aforementioned reputation; skip it.) We spent the afternoon enjoying the beautiful waterfront scenery (while the kids focused their appreciation on chocolate gelato and sand castles) and then drove 15 minutes to Fornalutx, the sweetest little hillside village you could ever dream up. We stayed in an AirBnB for three nights, which we used as our home base as we explored the rest of Mallorca's mountainous northern coast. It was a little piece of paradise.

AN EXPAT HALLOWEEN

halloween.jpg

Although the costumes screamed "procrastinating American parents who no longer have access to Amazon Prime and scavenged around for anything that could possibly resemble a butterfly and ninja," Halloween was a success. 

True that it's not yet October 31, but our Spanish celebration is already on the books. The expat community hosted a huge trick-or-treating event in our neighborhood on Wednesday night, complete with imported Starbursts and Smarties. The kids enjoyed collecting candy and the parents enjoyed stealing it after they went to bed.

The early celebration accommodated the upcoming 4-day weekend (November 1 is All Saints Day), when many families are headed out of town. We'll be flying to Mallorca tomorrow to enjoy a few 75-and-sunny days on the beach!

 

ON SPANISH EFFICIENCY

At 3:51AM, I received some good news via a very loud app notification on my phone: the free 32-inch television our bank promised us on July 7 is now available for pickup. 

Some obvious questions arise: (1) Why is our bank giving us a free television? (2) After the 105 day wait, why the urgent need to announce its arrival at 3:51AM?

The answer to the second question is anyone's guess, but as for the first, our bank was running a promotion when we opened the account: upon receipt of the first direct deposit, they would send me either a smartwatch, a tablet, or a television. I chose the latter. And then I direct deposited. And then nothing happened. The TV became something of a running joke in our household — the totally unnecessary free gift that was surely never going to arrive. Until suddenly, in the middle of the night, it did. Typical, Spain.

Spain gets a bad rap for being a "mañana culture" — why do today what you can put off until tomorrow? — but at least here in Barcelona, that hasn't really been our experience. We're consistently impressed by the efficiency and meticulousness of this place. For instance, round-the-clock construction crews were deployed to fix the insane pipe explosion that devastated our block and waylaid our move-in; it was fully repaired within 4 days. On any given walk, you encounter multiple conserjes (doormen) dutifully hosing down the sidewalks or sweeping the streets. Hoards of city workers are tasked with washing municipal garbage bins with antibacterial spray and grooming the beaches with pride and care. Public transit is clean and punctual. Things seem to run as they should.

Now that said, there is definitely a uniquely Spanish way of getting shit done. It often seems to involve a request, followed by a prolonged black-box period of being totally incommunicado, and then satisfactory request fulfilment at the precise moment you've lost all faith. You asked; I'll get it done. It might not be tomorrow, and I might not acknowledge that you asked, but I'll do it. My American self was waiting for confirmation that my free TV was being processed, and maybe an interim status update about its progress. But my expat self should have realized that it would come, in its own time, and that providing any other information would have been entirely gratuitous. Why take time away from working on a problem by talking about working on a problem? Our adapted approach: ask...and then have faith.

And on the topic of efficiency, kudos to Spanish law enforcement: our first speeding ticket, complete with photographic evidence, arrived yesterday via certified mail. We were going 110 kph in a 100 zone — or 6.2 mph over the speed limit. (Not pictured: Lead-Foot Aaron in the driver's seat.)

FIESTA NACIONAL DE ESPAÑA

It's a Wednesday evening and the city is silent. It's raining, which — for a population unaccustomed to any kind of precipitation — is the Catalan equivalent of a 12-inch Boston snowfall; few people venture outside and drivers seem to believe they're one raindrop away from losing complete control of their cars.

In addition to the weather, it's also particularly quiet because today's a national holiday. Stores and schools and businesses are closed and the typical cacophony of motos at rush hour is on (welcome) hiatus. Maybe, you'd think, were it not for the rain, people would be outside celebrating; this is, after all, a city that boasts a near-continual calendar of festivals. Celebrating is what Barcelona does best. But after my many "so what's this holiday all about?" conversations with locals, I'm not sure anyone here would be celebrating even under the best of atmospheric circumstances.

Living life according to a foreign holiday schedule is a little bizarre. There were no fireworks on July 4 and Labor Day was celebrated with, well, labor — but now we have this random midweek holiday, which no one can really explain the significance of. It's the Fiesta Nacional de España, which apparently commemorates a grab-bag of special things — first and foremost, Christopher Columbus's arrival in the Americas. (Huh, not so foreign, after all.) Now I've never met an American who's super gung-ho about the U.S. Columbus Day, but there seems to be a special brand of apathy here. I've been told that because it's a national holiday (read: belonging to a nation that many Catalans don't want to be a part of), there is a very definite local blasé. But after poo-pooing October 12, many were quick to reference the regional importance of September 11 — the Fiesta Nacional de Catalunya — which has become a symbol of Catalan efforts for independence.

Ah, life as an expat — marked by the interesting things you learn ever-so-slowly after asking a hopelessly large number of dumb (and probably inappropriate) questions.